Monthly Archives: August 2013

In Iceland’s Golden Circle, Gullfoss and Geysir

One of the most impressive waterfalls to see in Iceland is Gullfoss, no doubt. Found in Iceland’s southwestern region, and marking the endpoint of an area known as The Golden Circle, Gullfoss is definitely worth making at least an hour or so stop at this cascade.

Fed by the Hivítá river, these waters plunge into a crevice that is more than 100 feet deep. To me, the closest comparison would be Niagara Falls, as this Icelandic wonder also produces a mist and spray. For viewing, you can venture along Gullfoss via a pathway with a guardrail to get different angles. A second area for getting a closer viewpoint is on a rocky platform that you have to step up to get on top.

What’s also interesting about this place is that it almost didn’t last in its true form. Its present existence is thanks to a woman named Sigríour Tómasdóttir, who fought her father (who owned the area around the falls) and the Icelandic government against building a hydraulic dam from being built in the 1920s. Though permission was given to construct the dam, the plans never went into place because of public outcry and later on Gullfoss became a protected reserve. You can learn more about the story through a plaque as well as see a statue in her memory.

Geysir

Up the road from Gullfoss, you’ll find the Geysir geothermal area, an arrangement of bubbling hot springs. This area of blowholes gets pretty hot as the underground temperatures can reach up to or even over 100 degrees Celsius and force boiling water to gurgle over.

Being the most memorable to see, Strokkur spouts up like a fountain consistently about every 10 or so minutes. Less active ones here include Blesi, a set of twin bluish pools; Fata, which seems a bit temperamental; and Litli Geyser, a petite slosher.

Thingvellir National Park

While still in the Golden Circle, one important place to visit is Thingvellir National Park, a primary site of Iceland’s geological and historical inheritance. After first being under Norwegian rule and then the Danish crown, the country’s chieftains gathered here in the summertime for two weeks to hold court on making legal decisions for decades until the early 18^th century.

Yet, the park still remains an important fixture in Iceland’s history. Its people gathered to hear their country’s declaration of independence from Denmark and becoming a republic in late 1944. History aside, definitely explore the park as well.

Seeing a Glacial Lagoon and Hiking through a National Park

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On our fifth day along the southeastern part of Iceland, we headed out for a boat ride along Jökulsárlón Glacial Lagoon. This large, bright blue lagoon is situated between the ocean and an outlet glacier called Breiŏamerkurjökull. Chunks of floating icebergs that have broken off from Breiŏamerkurjökull float along the water and the whole setting is peaceful.

Before heading on the boat, climb up the gravel hill that overlooks the lagoon for great views and greater photo opportunities. The boat ride lasts a good enough time for picture taking as well. Our guide offered a good lesson about the lagoon’s formation as well as the weather conditions. You also get to touch a piece of ice, as your guide lifts up a section from the water. And if you can, you can hold a bigger and heavier part.

Many buses head out here for a look at Jökulsárlón but double check to make sure there you have time for the boat ride and for getting back. Another neat thing about stopping here is that the eatery/gift shop sells a beer called “Vatnajökull Frozen in Time.” Made by the Icelandic brewery, Ölvisholt Brugghús, this amber beer is brewed with glacial water. A bottle costs about $10 USD, but it is worth buying. Its taste is nice and clean.

And when you head past the bridge near Jökulsárlón, you will come across a black sand beach that has blocks of ice as well.

Next up, Skaftafell National Park, Iceland’s second largest national park, has quite a network of trails leading across this rugged landscape with valleys, mountain peaks and glaciers. There are large camping grounds here and the facilities are pretty equipped with a restaurant, small shop, bathrooms and washing machines.

We took a short but steep hike up toward the peaks and this path was quite a climb. Yet the view is worth the work as the views are almost like being in the Alps. Just watch yourself too, as the trails can be rocky and slippery.

Moving Along Iceland’s Ring Road

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Leaving Reykjavik and heading south, we went along Iceland’s Ring Road, a national highway that connects towns and passes by fjords, mountains, farmland and plateaus. Also known as Route 1, this main road is about 830 miles and connects to picturesque sites including two major waterfalls, Seljalandsfoss and Skógafoss, and the Jökulsárlón glacier lagoon.

For most of the Ring Road, it’s like any common interstate highway you may have driven on, with two split lanes going in different directions. Time wise, the route is well traveled during the summer months yet during winter it can be a different story. Certain parts of it are often closed due to bad weather or road conditions. So, if you happen to be there (from October through April), check ahead before driving out.

Seljalandsfoss

While en route, we made stops at these outdoor marvels. At Seljalandsfoss, there is a trail that leads you literally go behind these falls. Starting from the right, the trail winds around the back of the waterfall going underneath a cavern. Here, you can see and hear up close the continuing water. Then, you can head back out to the left to climb up a viewing area to check a different angle of Seljalandsfoss. Be careful, too, as these spots can be slippery.

Skógafoss

Equally if not more inspiring, Skógafoss is one of Iceland’s largest waterfalls. You can get quite close to the waterfall and the spray coming off is amazing to see and feel. Just remember, as you get towards the mist, to protect your camera lens! As you are able to walk along the base of the waterfalls, you can also get to different levels for more than one side view.

On the east side of Skógafoss, there is a long staircase in which you make the climb to get all the way to the top, or stop at side paths along the way that lead to lookout points. I tried to go up the entire staircase to reach the pinnacle, but due to having limited time — and me needing a lot more of time to get up and back down in one piece — I decided to go along one of the side trails and then back down to the base instead.

Solheimajökull glacier

In addition to waterfalls, Iceland’s glaciers are a beauty unto themselves. You can actually book tours to climb them, or simply walk near them. The day’s itinerary included a spot at the amazing Solheimajökull glacier, an outlet of an ice cap known as Mýrdalsjökull. You can walk up to this glacier, and get close enough to touch the ice and see the river next to it.

My time outdoors ended with a jaunt to Dyrholaey Nature Reserve, not too far from the town of Vik. Since 1978, this marine protected area consists of cliffs and a rock archway where puffins and other species of birds come to roost. Unfortunately, on this day, the weather suddenly changed and didn’t want to cooperate on giving us a clear view. However, it is neat to walk around here. And, of course, be careful near the edges.

Taking a Dip in Iceland’s Blue Lagoon

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One of Iceland’s well-visited attractions is the Blue Lagoon. A by-product of a nearby geothermal power plant called Svartsengi, the lagoon is a pool and spa complex that is worth taking a trip to and a dip in.

About a 40-minute drive from Reykjavik, this outdoor lagoon is in the middle of a lava field and recognized for its bluish and milky-white water. It is quite warm and contains minerals such as silica that are believed to help in treating certain skin ailments like psoriasis. Silica, which is white in color, is found in different sections of the lagoon, and you can dig it up with your hands and lather it on your face or body. Think of it as a mud mask.

Way before going in the water and even before heading to the changing room area, your visit to the Blue Lagoon starts by purchasing a towel and a special blue wristband that closes your locker. Robes can also be rented separately.

Once you’re set there, head to men or women’s changing room areas to get into your swimsuit and put your stuff in an available locker. On the ladies’ side, this area is quite big (there are lower and upper levels) and you might have to walk around a bit to find an empty locker. After three tries, I found one, slipped into my swimsuit and closed my locker by raising my wristband against a wall panel.

Going in or coming out, you will be passing by shower stalls and sharing open changing areas with countless other visitors, so don’t get nervous or uncomfortable if you see a lot of skin. It’s like being at the local gym. Once you’re ready, grab your towel and head down to the lagoon.

It’s a blissful scene here. Being in the warm water (maybe around 86 F/32 C in temperature) and looking out at the surrounding mountains and up at the clear blue sky is quite surreal. The lagoon’s waters are pretty clean as they get renewed every 40 hours. It’s not that deep either.

Areas close to the edge of the lagoon are quite shallow, so be a bit careful. I was in a hurry to get next to one of these spots so that a nice lady could take my picture and I smacked the side of my leg hard against a mound. Oh well. Just more time to spend in the water to help my sore muscles.

Around the lagoon, there are also bridges and an outdoor bar where you can swim up to and order drinks. I didn’t get any but I heard for payment you just flash your wristband and your drink is put on your tab. Instead, I floated along and chatted with other visitors.

Back indoors, there are two dining options. A cafe has sandwiches, salads, chips and drinks and a restaurant offers more upscale choices. At the gift shop, you can buy skin care products made with minerals from the sea waters but they can be a bit pricey.

If you don’t have a car, you can get to the Blue Lagoon by bus from Keflavik International Airport, which is a 20-minute ride, and through tour operators. It’s nice option for those who have a layover that gives them enough time to head out the lagoon and back.

Interestingly, the lagoon is located where the Eurasian and American tectonic plates meet, so it’s actually set between two continents. Other than the lagoon though, there isn’t much else in this region to visit. However, the scenery is interesting. You will notice how the 2010 volcanic eruption has changed the look of this landscape and probably spot some Icelandic horses, too.

At Lyman Orchards, Sunflowers Are A-maze-ing

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On Sunday, I walked among a field of sunflowers. And yes, to sound like a dork, it was “a-maze-ing.” I’ll also add that it’s definitely worth paying a visit to Lyman Orchards, a 1,100-acre farm in Central Connecticut, this month. At this farm in Middlefield, an absolutely beautiful sunflower maze is open for exploring now through Sunday, August 25.

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More than 300,000 sunflowers make up this two-mile maze. Before heading in, go up on an observation deck first to get a nice overview. Then as you are walking through the maze, keep an eye out for shades that go beyond the typical sunflower yellow. My friend and I spotted a few reds and oranges, and even darker tinted ones like a rich purple or even black.

sun 11 The size of some of the flower heads were close to matching dinner plates, and, due to weight, a few were bent over a little bit. We even spotted one or two little ones still waiting to bloom.

The maze’s path is pretty simple, and there are a few place markers but finding your way isn’t too bad. There is an admission fee of $10, with $1 going to the Connecticut Children’s Medical Center. And while you are at Lyman Orchards, take advantage of the opportunity to do some picking. The orchard here is quite impressive, as almost 100 different types of fruits are grown from June through October.

In keeping with what’s in season, right now your picking options include blueberries, pears and peaches, and pretty soon, apples. I haven’t gone picking before, so I grabbed a container and headed for the blueberry bushes. After digging and going around nets (and having my friend tug me free from one thanks to my pants getting caught), I got a handful of berries to bring home.

If farming isn’t really your thing, and maybe golf is instead, there is a golf course down the road. Also owned by Lyman Orchards, Lyman Orchards Golf has three different style courses. And if you miss out on the Sunflower Maze, there will be a corn maze set to open August 31 and run through November 3. For getting to the orchard, at 3 Lyman Road, I suggest taking Merritt Parkway to CT-66 E but you can also go on I-95 to pick up I-91.

Exploring Iceland: First Stop, Reykjavik

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Visit Iceland during summer months is like being able to stay at the playground way after dark. Daylight runs a bit longer than probably what you’re used to. Yet, having the extra “time” to take in scenery is worth it.

Recently, I took a package tour through the country, first spending two days in Reykjavik, Iceland’s capital, and then heading along the southeast coast for six days before going back west. So let’s start with Reykjavik. It’s a small yet walkable city, particularly around the old town section. There is also a good public bus system and you can get what’s called a Welcome Card from Tourist Information Center by Ingólfstorg or from your hotel.

RI 13 The city center is where most attractions, eateries, and crowds are found. With restaurants and cafes, you can find choices that include traditional Icelandic meals such as cod, salmon, lamb, puffin and minke whale (commercial whale hunting exists). Other cuisine options include everything from American to Indian. Nightlife here consists of clubs and bars, such as a neat one dedicated to the film The Big Lebowski, and it’s possible to run into late-night partiers heading home as late as 8 a.m.

Just as exploring the city by foot or bus is a good way to learn more about Reykjavik, here are a couple of spots worth stopping at:

Tjörnin

Tjörnin is a lake near the city center, surrounded by a park graced with statues and pathways and comes to the edge of City Hall. It’s very serene. As you get closer to the street side of Tjörnin, you’ll see many birds flock here, including swans, geese and arctic terns.

Hallgrímskirkja

Hallgrímskirkja is a Lutheran church that offers some great panoramic views of Reykjavik with an observation tower. Pay a small fee to take a partial lift up and then walk up stairs to get to the top. The church also has an impressive organ.

Perlan

Speaking of scenery, Perlan has a viewing deck at the top of this building on the hill called Öskjuhlíð. For decades, the structure has held five hot water storage tanks used for geothermal heating, a major energy source in Iceland. There is also a restaurant here that is said to rotate (I’ve heard mixed reviews about the food) but the exterior views are really nice. You can get to Perlan by either walking up or taking a taxi or car.

Harpa Concert Hall

Down at the harbor, Harpa Concert Hall is a glass-based, geometrical wonder that is fairly new to the city. Opened in May 2011, this hall serves as an opera house and venue for theatrical and musical performances, conferences and lectures. Step inside to gaze around at this structure. The upper level reminds me of like a kaleidoscope and has nice lookout views of the city and the surrounding landscape.

Bæjarins Beztu Pylsur

Also near the harbor, Bæjarins Beztu Pylsur is a small hotdog stand that has been in existence since 1937. Just dogs and soft drinks are found on the menu. Condiments include universal favorites like ketchup and sweet mustard along with onions either fried or raw. Be adventurous and try remolaði, a mayonnaise-based sauce with sweet relish.

Before you go, remember that the weather can change often so pack clothes you can layer on and take off.